I am off to Toronto today for a weekend of Nuit Blanche. I will be participating in Kelly Lycan's show, WHITE HOT at TPW. Find out more tomorrow!In the meantime,
I thought it would be fun to ask two different Vancouver designers (who went to the same Shoe-making school in England) some questions about shoes.
Elizabeth Davey currently works as a clothing designer for Obakki though she received most of her design education in footwear.
Erin Templeton work's with new and recycled leather makes mostly bags and belts, and sandals in the summer. She has a studio/storefront in Vancouver's Chinatown, where she makes her bags, belts, sandals etc. in the back, and sells vintage shoes, clothes and silk scarves in the front.
Elizabeth Davey Interview
Where did you study shoe-making?
I Studied at a College in London, England, called Cordwainers College. It is no longer around as a self-sufficient college. It has since been taken over by London College of Fashion. At the time it was solely dedicated to saddlery (horses), footwear and accessories.
What made you want to learn how to make and design shoes?
I think my outrageous need and desire to constantly consume shoes coupled with my coming of age need to find a career path/educational path...who really knows how I came up with such a silly idea...
What's the hardest part about making shoes?
the design, no the tools, no the fitting....well its all pretty complicated- unlike clothing you can't just pull off the shoe and nip it in a little here and let it out a little there and salvage that particular one while seeing the results immediately. It is quite a process, I find, and an intimidating one at that.
When you are looking for shoes, what's the most important aspect that you seek out?
the pair that wont let me leave the store without them- the ones calling my name in my dreams- I am totally emotionally driven with shoes and not at all logical- like "I need a pair of black flat sandals to replace that pair....". That statement has tried to work its way out of my mouth but I just can't do it. I cannot buy something unless I love it. Then, at that point, I look at fit. It has to fit me properly. My greatest pet peeve about a shoe is when it doesn't fit- either too big or too small. Again, the comparison to clothing, you cannot just make it work like you can an oversize shirt or sloppy sweater, especially when its open toe!!!
Describe your favourite pair of shoes. What makes them your favourite?
It is ever changing- But right now, its a pair of grey suede high wedge buckle sandals by Surface to Air. I Looooooove them- I tried them on, on a whim, and then realized how great they looked, I couldn't not buy them.
Have you ever thought, "I can't find the shoes I want, I'll just make them!"?
If yes, did you follow through with this?
yes many times...and have since learned that I will never finish a pair. I started many a pair and then put it aside until I could further idealize my perfect most necessary shoe and it would never happen- and I am not big on copying so I wouldn't really opt for that- seeing a pair I love and then trying to make them....so, alas, I have all these scraps of leather pinned on and draped across random lasts packed away in boxes. Some I even went so far as to mould my insole...to never be removed from the last....
When is the last time you made a pair of shoes?
Officially finished and done and wearable? I am embarrassed to say but, 2 years ago.
What is something that most people don't know about shoemaking?
hmmmm...I try to not underestimate people...I don't know a lot about shoemaking, especially seeing as I don't do it enough. I don't think I am expert enough to offer that advise.
For me, as an unschooled shoemaker, what piece of advice can you suggest for me while I'm doing this project?
The only one thing that I think is really good to know is how to "skive"- thinning the edge of the leather in order to make it really smooth around seams. There are machines that do this but it's really great to know how to do it by hand. I never learned how to do this by hand, well, but if I could take the time on a skill it would be that and handsewing the entire shoe...its pretty awesome learning how to make a shoe completely by hand, very empowering to be able to do something without the machines.
Erin Templeton Interview
Where did you study shoe-making?
cordwainers college in london, my friend was thinking about some evening classes there, and i couldn't believe the famous cordwainers college of london, was basically a run down vocational school in hackney that has night classes for about 100 pound. so i just went the next day, paid the fees, failed to mention i was canadian, and made some shoes!
What made you want to learn how to make and design shoes?
i think everyone seems to want to know more about shoes and making, and since its so hard o find a place to do, i think that makes it even more intriging (spelling) i don't knw, i didn't think i would get the chance to be honest, so i just jumped at it. thats the thing about living in london, its so expensive, you have to keep yourself busy. it probably saved me money having homework, and something to do and making things on the side with the scraps i found. i don't think i answered that question at all!
What’s the hardest part about making shoes?
holding the shoe when you have small girl hands, its true. i wouldn't admit that in school, but the teachers were right, i don't make shoes other than sandals for resale, so i guess, just when everything is done, and you are fiishing it on the big sander (finisher) and the sandpaper the whole side of it, that is hard to swallow.
When you are looking for shoes, what’s the most important aspect that you seek out?
i am a jerk, i only where vintage, so i have to wear birkenstocks all of the time at work, because my shoes are not comfortable most of the time.
Style? yes!!!
Comfort? 50/50
Quality? i have worn shoes with holes in the sole for a whole winter.
Describe your favourite pair of shoes. What makes them your favourite?
which ever is the last pair i found i guess, i have a vintage store so i am always looking, i have a soft spot of charles jourdan, but they never seem to fit me, i guess they are really more like my trophies, so i don't mind.
Have you ever thought, “I can’t find the shoes I want, I’ll just make them!”?
If yes, did you follow through with this?
i knew better!
When is the last time you made a pair of shoes?
other than my sandals i produce in the spring, i haven't made a pair of shoes in quite a while, its sad.
What is something that most people don’t know about shoemaking?
it is a lot of math and structure, and practice,
For me, as an unschooled shoemaker, what piece of advice can you suggest for me while I’m doing this project?
keep it simple!
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This is an awesome Project.
ReplyDeleteabsosmurfinlutely inspirational !
Keep up the great work.